Trip Report/ Japan 2024

Contents
Part 1: Skiing Hokkaido
Part 2: First Time Tourist in Tokyo (coming soon)
Part 3: Home Stay in Miyazaki (coming soon)

Skiing Hokkaido
After last year’s epic sail and ski out of Tromsø, Norway with Malena (long overdue trip report still pending), it was almost difficult to think of how to top that. But all agreed that the only possibility was to ski the famous powder of Hokkaido, Japan. Result: as they say in the survey business, “exceeded expectations.” And I had very high expectations…

Details

• When: powder hounds seek out Japan in January and February to experience the deepest powder, but our schedules only permitted the first half of March. Serendipity #1: still lots of powder in Hokkaido in March, plus clearer skies, hence stunning visibility.
• Where. So many choices in Hokkaido, but our guide’s home base was in Furano, which turned out to be an excellent choice. Serendipity #2: because of a snafu with our rental car (like all rules, the Japanese are serious about requiring an international driver’s permit to rent a car), so we end up taking a single car diesel train to the ski resort—so unique that there are train enthusiasts on board with huge cameras just for the experience.
• Who: Chuck Olbery of Hokkaido Powder Guides is a gem, not just as an expert backcountry guide, but because of his Australian-Malaysian heritage and Japanese wife, is also a wonderful and insightful conversationalist for our road trips from our hotel in Furano to the trailhead in the Daisetsuzan National Park. Afterwards, I write a glowing Google Review, saying “… Chuck somehow manages the perfect balance of competence, safety, personable-ness, and respect for the customer.”
• One Word, “Onsen.” Serendipity #3: every ski day ends in the first word in Japanese that every traveler should learn, “onsen,” which means “natural hot springs.” Our hotel in Furano has the entire top floor dedicated to an onsen, as does the trailhead where we ski. With pools outside, which after showering makes the initial walk to the pools (totally naked[1]), somewhat breathtaking. Chuck tells us that a local once got accidentally locked outside all night in the onsen, surrounded by snow drifts. Reportedly, he wasn’t all that upset by the experience.

The skiing was well-captured by the video that Chuck made for us, which even rewatching it now makes me want to plan my next trip (spoiler alert: “ski Mongolia”):

[1] Onsen bathing in Japan features separate facilities for men and women, and is done completely naked—except for the small onsen hand towel that you put on top of your head when it’s snowing.